What’s my favorite thing about summer (even adored more than the country-wide celebration of my birthday)? Click here to find out!
Dear Auntie SAM: What are summers like in Basel?
While an intern at Seattle Opera, I devoted two summers to Wagner’s Der Ring des Nibelungen. Ours was a „Green Ring“ — full of natural beauty brimming with life. Our Rhinemaidens were aerialists, swimming on trapezes while taunting & singing. The Ring opens & closes to their dulcet tunes. The only time in the opera the music is relaxed & forgiving.
When the spring rains end in Basel & the sun decides to shine, the rays don’t so much caress you. They perch just past your shoulder, like an annoying bus passenger reading your newspaper, threatening to crease your face & tan you like a Medieval field worker.
(Or, in my case: take me down like it did my dad. Your Auntie might have unresolved issues with the sun.)
The Rhine cuts through Basel like the arc of an arrow. Dividing the Haves from the Have-nots, so some say. But I don’t think it’s just coincidence that the heart of Basel beats strongest on the side embraced by the river. The side of the Have-nots: Kleinbasel.
And that threatening, rude sun? It shines the strongest on Kleinbasel. But because of the Rhine & the tree-lined street that follows its curve, pedestrians to cyclists to dreamers on parkbenches are all sheltered & lulled or encouraged to play.
Restaurants extend tablecloth service into this boulevard. Buvettes — the small barn-like love-children of bistros & food trucks — sell ice creams & other refreshments, including plastic-sealed sausages for you to cook on community grills.
In the States, when families plan picnics, someone in that family will often arrive at the park early to find & defend against all who approach a park grill. As if it was the forged ring. Our Rheingold.
In Kleinbasel, along the Rhine — young & old, dark-skinned to fair, Baslers or Auslanders — all share. Strapping men with tongs make space for newcomers, flipping & turning as needed. Talking; communicating with gestures; laughing & letting be. There’s plenty good fortune for all.
Girls sunbathe. Boys posture. Children jump off piers. Adults in summer casuals sip wine at tables decorated with sweet summer blooms. Old men & immigrants toss metal silver balls across the sand. Music plays. The river soothes.
As throughout much of Europe, it’s difficult to get work done in Basel during the summer. Many families take July & August for vacation, visiting families or staying at summer cottages somewhere they adore.
But for those of us who stay in Basel, the Rhine brings out the best in us. Its Alpine waters chill us from the summer sun. Its forceful flow allows for a vigorous challenge swimming against it; or, a peaceful ride giving in to its charms.
Even the sun can be forgiven in the Rhine.
Every time I enter it, I fully expect a Rheinmaiden to grab my ankle & pull me under. We’d play & sing a saucy tune.
I wouldn’t be surprised at all; I know they’re there. Because there’s gold within that river.
Come play.
XO
AS
___
There’s plenty to do indoors in Basel this weekend. But, now that the kids have returned to school, vacations are complete, & summer draws us to its close, let’s enjoy our last beautiful days along the Rhine. I’ll bring the sunscreen; you bring the beer 😉